Favourite Destinations In The Solent Out Of Season

   

Crew: Lynda  

Saturday 1st

We had a late start due to family priorities, but eventually got down to the Solent in time for lunch at the Royal Southern before we left for a week visiting our favourite locations around the Solent.  October was a time we hoped would be relatively quiet but still warm enough to enjoy the more quiet places we had frequented but all too often, were rather crowded and difficult to appreciate.

Due to a lack of time and the desire to have a relaxed start the first destination was Bucklers Hard on the Beaulieu river where we had reserved a berth in the Marina anticipating a cold night. We had stocked the boat to last most of the week so shouldn't have to worry about shopping or refuelling. We wanted to be independent of the weather but it was good to start when set off in bright, sunny conditions.

With only about five knots of south westerly wind, and the tide against us we decided to gently motor round Calshot Spit and then Stansore Point in order to get moored up in good time. After gliding past various yachts making very little headway but by the time we'd had a cup of tea we were off the river entrance heading towards the latest millennium project, a leading light in the shape of a small lighthouse. We had a pleasant cruise up the river past the many moored yachts, soon reaching Ginns Farm. Here, the Royal Southampton YC appeared to be holding an event as several yachts were dressed overall making the afternoon quite festive. A bit further on as we rounded the last bend of the river we could see the old slipway where the Men of War were built at Bucklers hard. The marina was only a bit further on where we went straight on to our berth under the direction of the harbourmaster who could not have been more helpful, as usual.

Arriving in good time we were able to walk to the village along the river path. This is always a pleasure, but on this perfect autumn evening it was a real delight, the vivid colours in the dying sunshine made the river a picture of serenity. Drinks at the Beaulieu Arms were rather prolonged as we met a rather jolly crew of aviators who were planning a similar week as ourselves but in the opposite direction on a Westerly. The path back was not as easy in the dark but we managed to avoid most of the mud and puddles and soon enjoyed a magnificent meal on board courtesy of M&S.

Sunday

The weather could not last and became rather changeable forcing plans for the next few days to be on the cautious side, but this was not a problem as we were happy to stay in the relative safety of the Solent. It was wonderful first thing, when daylight broke over the river, to see the first rays of sunlight catching the morning mist lingering in a dead calm over the mirror smooth surface of the river. We had time to have a quick walk to the shop at the end of Bucklers Hard for Sunday papers and appreciate the tranquil setting whilst feeding the ducks before too many visitors arrived. The Hard and waterside didn’t look at all like a museum as it often does, the nautical artefacts and the sloop firmly held in its mud berth looked quite natural, as if we had stumbled upon a neglected quay in the middle of the countryside.

We set off at about 10:30 to catch just enough favourable tide to get us to Bembridge but as soon as we got underway it clouded over; when we were at Ginns we were in a really strong squall. Fortunately it didn’t last long and we were soon off the river entrance setting the sails in fine conditions. A beam reach in 15kn of steady breeze soon got us to the forts; off the wind Libeccio really flew through the light Solent chop. Unfortunately as the tide turned it became a slow sail to St Helens. We chose to have lunch on board, this was the price of a rather leisurely departure, it was far too nice to drop the sails and motor in.

 In the early afternoon we were following the meandering line of buoys that lead across the sands and into the harbour. Then past the row of beach huts made out of old railway carriages above the sands on the Duver. Sunday was race day so we had a fleet of Redwings to welcome us in the bay and once through the harbour entrance we had to weave our way past the menagerie fleet of Bembridge Haven SC as we made our way to the far end of the harbour and the little marina. We had arrived in time to join the returning fleet for a traditional Sunday afternoon pint in the bar of this very genuine, friendly sailing club that is such a contrast to the Club on the other side of the harbour.

Later on, after a short walk round the harbour past the tidal mill to the Duver, we found we had the the marina to ourselves. Everyone seemed to have gone back to their home ports leaving the harbour in silence for the evening.

Monday

A lay day and an opportunity for a good walk to Culver Head for lunch at the “Crab & Lobster”. We got off to a leisurely start heading round the harbour past the houseboats ranging from tacky to decrepit, past Redwing Quay and Bembridge Sailing Club which “does not have a reciprocal arrangement with anyone”, then past the little café and onto the beach. 

It’s a great walk along the sands and over the groynes  which reach up to the long ramp for the lifeboat with its hut at the end. It’s not far to go back into the village where the centre is quite quaint with a few pubs, deli’s and shops making a contrast to the acres of bungaloid growth all around it – retirement paradise! We spent a happy hour in the little shipwreck museum poring over nautical bits and pieces that have been raised and read of the heroism of a 14 year old girl who kept the light on St Helens Fort burning although cut off by terrible storms from her father who had gone to the mainland for supplies.

It's not far to the Crab and Lobster with it's wonderful views out over Princessa Shoal where you can watch the ferries making their way to Cherbourg. Much famed for its seafood we contented ourselves with some crab sandwiches accompanied by some excellent real ale. The pub was unusually relaxed – very different from heaving summer weekends, just a sprinkling of retired people, someone reading a paper and a few fishermen propping up the bar.

The walk around the coast to Culver Head is a bit variable, some views are remarkable but you have to traverse several caravan sites and holiday parks, all looking a bit deserted at this time. From the top of the down the views are really outstanding; south with Sandown & Shanklin over the bay and north over Bembridge to the mainland. We could trace the outline of the harbour clearly above the airport that had previously always been invisible. The ridge extends for several miles then it was downhill to Brading before returning to St Helens and the harbour.

The marina remained really peaceful so we were on our own for the whole evening enjoying a quiet meal as the tide ebbs and flows alternatively leaving mud flats then filling the harbour again.

Tuesday

We couldn't leave until three hours before high water which was mid afternoon, so walked into Seaview out along the country paths and back along the coast. The little town is attractive and rather smart so well worth a visit; all very Edwardian with teashops and an active sailing club. Unfortunately whilst it is easy to walk back around the first two bays there is a rather difficult scramble over rocks covered in mud and seaweed to get round the headland and back to the Duver.

After a light lunch we set off in ideal conditions for the Medina. It was a brisk south-westerly so had a beam reach past the forts, out around Ryde sands, past Wooton, across Osborn Bay then dropping  sails before entering Cowes. Gales were forecast so we'd decide to stop and tie up at the Island marina; this is just past the Folly Inn and reputed to be “the quietest night on the Island”. Entry is through a lock accessible several hours either side of high water but when we arrived it was free flow much to the crew’s relief. It was all very quiet with that ‘out of season feel’. 

We had the feeling it never is in season there now as it all looks rather past its prime. The sixties style control office would do justice to any French marina and the rusting hulk

of the once proud Ryde Queen Paddle steamer that was once a bar and club is not dilapidated. On the plus side it is really rather rural so braving the puddles we made our way to the Folly and back thankful that we'd put on our boots. Predictably the gales started to blow and the rain started to fall soon after we got into the Inn. We watched the rain hammer against the windows and had another pint hoping it would moderate, fortunately it did and the walk back was blustery rather that soaking!

Another evening at peace with the world in the deserted marina locked in with now way out. It was really snug and warm inside with the wind howling and the rain lashing down outside, the boat was curiously still as there were no waves inside the marina.

Wednesday

The wind and rain had blown themselves away so it was a reasonably fine day for a walk into Newport along the Medina river.  Being close to low water the river had become a mere trickle in the middle of mud flats as we made our way on the path along the bank. Whilst it’s quite rural there is a definite nautical feel to the river with all sorts of boats in various states of dilapidation.  These are spread along the upper reaches and remind you that the sea is not far away; this was once a hive of activity, especially near to Newport.

Our first stop was the classic boat museum where lots of amazing boats from racy 1950’s speedboats to sedate Edwardian steam driven riverboats can be found. One pink speedboat is really outlandish, lot’s of polished chrome work, gleaming paint – even the fenders are covered in leopard skin fabric! On the more traditional side there is a great collection of dinghies including a number of Redwings showing how they evolved. The town is interesting, as the capital of the Island it's full of fine buildings, all quite grand, for the Island anyway. There is plenty to explore around the old quay which leads the way up to the town centre. We stocked up with supplies, stopped off in the delightful arts centre, found a town centre pub for lunch, then finally made our way back laden down with groceries.

With the afternoon came high water and release from our storm retreat. The plan was for it to be a lay day so we just motored out back past the Folly into Cowes where we could leave at any state of tide the next morning. After mooring in the newly extended marina we went off for a walk around the town, so different in character from Newport and normally full of yachties. The parade up to Egypt point was strangely deserted so we are able to appreciate details such as the

Edwardian Iron drinking fountain and the old navigation light that in summer would be more difficult to linger over. As we headed back past the Royal Yacht Squadron the ferries were going back and forth, it wasn't end of season for them. It wasn't possible to resist heading into the Union for a pint of their excellent ale. It’s a funny old pub full of nautical memorabilia, much of it a bit tacky, but there is always a warm fire and the landlord is friendly enough when not busy. Later we dine at the very popular Red Duster which is quite attractive inside – it has an old fashioned Yacht Club theme with polished tables and pews for seats.

Thursday

In Bright sunshine and seemingly calm conditions we left Cowes for what we expected to be a short sail to Newtown River. However the Solent had one of its surprises up its sleeve and as soon as we had cleared Cowes Roads we were pounding into a force six with the tide against us, not the best conditions for Libeccio. Regrettably, whilst fast off the wind, Libeccio is not good hard on it and progress was slow. The crew became rather unhappy and wanted to get the uncomfortable journey over with as soon as possible so we put the iron sail on to maintain a reasonable speed. That turned out to be a good decision as another surprise hit us; a squall bringing winds of 35kn and penetrating rain with drops hitting you like little needles.

Fortunately it didn’t last long and we were soon entering the river following the quaint leading marks with a circle on the back one, and a V on the forward one. Its not difficult to get them into line thus avoiding the shallows as we entered the channel into the calm waters leading off to both right and to the left with the nature reserve and the remains of the old town dead ahead. There are only a few yachts moored and hardly any occupied so we picked a prime mooring all to ourselves in deep water close to the entrance.

Lunch was idyllic, totally peaceful with nothing but birds for company. We had an excellent view of the old town but there is not much to see, a quay, a few houses and the lines of wooden piles. It was a real pleasure to have a quite afternoon and sort out a few odd jobs but soon enough he weather changed again and the rain was lashing down driven by howling winds. No problem for us, well tied up to a strong mooring, quite safe and snug with the heating on. Another very pleasant meal on board is finished off with a fine malt whisky that was much more comforting than the weather outside

Friday

Again, we were fortunate and the bad weather had blown itself away by the time we woke up. It was a perfect morning, bright blue sky, a hint of mist and the surface of the water like a mirror. After breakfast and a pleasant chat with the harbourmaster we headed off to Yarmouth where we got the boat moored in double quick time so that we could catch the bus to Freshwater Bay for a walk over Tennyson Down to the Needles and back along the coast to Yarmouth.

The walk is one of the greatest on the Island, it’s quite a climb but the views from the top of the Down are magnificent. To the north past Hurst stretches the West Solent and to the West the Needles pointing towards the Isle of Purbeck. For a sailor who has regularly sailed in the area it is fascinating to see all the features laid out, just as they are on the chart together with all the areas of rough water.

The path leads down to the Needles Battery then further on to Alum bay, such a contrast from these amazing views. It’s a real tourist trap with lots of tacky gift shops and food & drink “outlets”; still so many people find it enjoyable it in the summer. 

Finding the way over the Warren was not that easy but eventually we descended to Totland Bay, following the esplanade round to Colwell bay where we were able to have a cup of tea and a rest in the tea rooms at the end of the short pier. From there it’s not far back to Yarmouth and a well-earned pint at The George.

It was the last night so to finish off the week we ate at the Baywatch, overlooking the harbour. We had particularly good meal, together with a friendly welcome and chat with the manager who was a keen Folkboat sailor. We made the mistake of leaving early to visit the Royal Solent, which unfortunately was completely empty even though it was Friday.

Saturday

The morning was again rotten – lots of rain, all very unpleasant until it cleared. We went ashore for a quick look around the Castle, which we had never seen before, even though we had been to Yarmouth countless times. It was interesting enough but not very extensive, the most memorable part was a fascinating collection of photographs showing life in Yarmouth when it was very much a working port rather than as it is now.

After a quick lunch on board we left and in no time the sails were up as soon as we'd cleared the harbour entrance and the pier. We had a fine sail back to Hamble  in a brisk wind, such a pleasure to be going down wind making great progress with a flooding tide with us.

It was a great week; we visited all our favourite places, had two great walks and even did a bit of sailing!