Crew: Lynda
Its not often that there's an opportunity to see a total
eclipse so we wanted to make the most of it. Unfortunately the path of totality went through the
Channel, only visible in part of Cornwall and the South Hams. The press had
suggested that these parts would be completely booked up, the roads impassable
and completely crowded; eclipse fever had struck. What better way of seeing the
eclipse than by boat and combining it with a cruise to the West Country? We
were surprised to be able to book a berth at Torquay Marina for the 11th
August and planned the first holiday on our new Beneteau 311, Libeccio.
Friday Night
We had a lift to the marina with what should have been a
minimum of luggage having loaded the boat up the previous weekend. Just as well
as when we arrive the heavens open up and there was an immense, almost tropical,
downpour. We got absolutely soaked but eventually everything was sorted out by 11 pm in time to get an
early night before setting off early the following morning.
Saturday
We are greeted with a sunny day with light winds and get
away in good spirits soon after 6am. Inevitably the wind was on the nose so it was motoring down the Solent, but with a favourable tide, we made 7 knots over the ground.
We left Hurst via the North Channel to avoid the Bridge but regretted it as we missed the tide for some time. Soon, however, we were back in the stream and passed St
Albans Head without incident; we went well offshore and had no trouble with the
race. The Dorset coast unfurled like a succession of postcards in the bright
sunshine. Finally the wind veered and built as forecast, so with a southerly it was a beam reaching for the last few hours. Heading into Weymouth in perfect conditions
the crew plucked up enough courage to helm for a while.
We arrived at the harbour entrance at about 3pm so had to wait by
the bridge, which opened at 4pm to let us through into the marina. We wanted a peaceful night, which is often a challenge on the quayside. We soon got the
boat sorted out, had a cup of tea and chat to our neighbours. The marina is
just as friendly as the quay but more relaxed, everyone seemed to know each
other, we heard that its “the grave of many a West Country trip”.
Dinner at Perry’s was marvellous – a great choice. We arrived just after the 8:30 bridge opening and had one of the best tables despite the
late booking which was only made just after we arrived in the harbour. The Crab mousse and scallops
were excellent starters followed by a rather buttery monkfish but lots of wine washed
it down. Lots of banter with a friendly crown of chaps from Notting Hill who
had taken a Sigma 33 to Dartmouth and we on their way back, all very jolly and
a pleasant end to a long day.
Sunday
By unanimous decision we made this a day of rest! All very
relaxing, we did a few chores before going to the Royal Dorset YC for lunchtime
drinks, a bit empty but pleasant enough. After reading for a while in the
afternoon we walked down to Nothe stopping off on the way back at Weymouth SC
which is a really active dingy club, lots of life. Eventually we found our way
back to eat onboard and have an early night.
Monday
Unfortunately we couldn't set off earlier than 8am which was the first
bridge opening. Quite a few others had the same idea so it was quite a flotilla
that set off out of the harbour hoisting sails together before heading south
to the Bill. The weather was sunny with a 16-20kn wind from the south. Motoring
down to the Bill was “interesting” in quite rough seas; the boats ahead kept
disappearing in the 10ft+ waves. It was peculiar just seeing only the masts
above the water. The inshore passage was passable but close to the limit with
strong wind over tide conditions aggravating an already rough sea. It didn’t
last long though so we were soon able to crack off onto a beam reach across
Lyme Bay, where the sea soon calmed down once we'd left the Bill. It turned out to be a
really fast passage and the weather made it really enjoyable. Time and the miles went really quickly, we went a quarter of the way across in each of three
successive hours.
Unfortunately it couldn't last so when, eventually, the wind
dropped off we had to motor for the last hour until we entered the
marina in Torquay at 4pm. Seven hours for the passage from Weymouth in total! The
staff were really helpful when we arrived meeting us at the berth to welcome us
and take our warps. Torquay has gone upmarket in recent years and compares well
with Weymouth as a destination in its own right. Weymouth is a real traditional
seaside resort – lots of guesthouses, fish and chips, teashops, donkeys and
swing boats on the beach but its appeal is quite basic. Torquay has tried to be
rather smarter, so have the people who go there now. There are lots of new
bistros, Jazz clubs, illuminations and nice restaurants. The Pavilion is a nice
place to be, a terrace for drinks, shops, portrait painters and lots of
interest. After a quick walk around the headland to stretch our legs we had
dinner on board. A perfect, balmy evening, clear & sunny, band playing as
the lights twinkled on and dusk fell - all very peaceful and pleasant, a
satisfying end to a successful day.
Tuesday
A lay day, so we went to Dartmouth via the ferry to Brixham, followed by the steam train to Kingswear and finally the lower ferry to the town. All
a bit crowded, not the best day to see one of our favourite towns. By chance we chanced on a great discovery, a restaurant called Hooked that made the trip all
worthwhile. It had an attractive light, modern décor and served great seafood;
usually fully booked we were able to get a table for lunch. The squid in chilli
flavoured sesame oil was superb; marinated, cooked then served whole scored
with a cross and really tender. We couldn’t resist the deserts, the white
chocolate mousse with cardamom biscuits was excellent. Well worth knowing about
and only just opened – destined for greatness!
Returning to Torquay we spent much of the evening at the
Royal Torbay YC, which was hosting the Laser national championships with
hundreds of competitors. All very lively and a contrast to the usual yacht club
atmosphere. Perhaps it had something to do with the enormous number of pints
of Sunny Ale that were being served.
Wednesday – Eclipse Day
We rose early to nip into town for a few things and noticed a
real air of expectations all round. Oldies had staked their claim to
deckchairs, others a bit of grass, many with thermos flasks. T shirt sellers
were doing little business so were the boat trip sellers unsuccessfully trying
to persuade punters that the view would be better in the bay away from light
pollution. The marina was really active, just like the morning of the round the
island race.
Soon it was like a new moon and growing quite dark, just
like an intense thunderstorm. We could see several tantalising glimpses of the sun
through the cloud cover.
It only got really dark when most of the sun was covered, at
least 99%! Suddenly then the line disappeared, the street lights came on and it
was quite dark locally although there was some brighter sky in the distance.
Everything went quiet for a few moments, the birds were confused and the front
look really strange with lights on, full of people, not a storm or a party or
in the evening – quite unique. Then horns sounded, maroons went off, everyone
cheered as, suddenly, the darkness lifted. It was easy to understand the
feelings of people in times gone by that were less informed and more suspicious
of such great primeval forces.
A few minutes after totality the spell was lifted, normality
returned and everyone went back home. It was difficult to follow that
experience; we went over to Brixham for the afternoon then had a very pleasant
dinner at the bistro – Number 7 – close to the yacht club.
Thursday
A slow start to a
perfect day; sunny with a light breeze. Had breakfast of fresh croissants on
deck and got in the last few provisions. We were able to set off for Salcombe at
11:30 unfortunately the weather was not good for sailing so we had to motor
south to Start point before turning west along
The friendly harbourmaster told us that it wasn’t at all
full away from the beaches so our fears were unfounded – eclipse fever was
either over or hadn’t happen. We anchored well beyond the Bag in a really
peaceful spot alongside a point covered in bushy trees looking like masses of
broccoli. We were almost on our own, the only noise being bleating sheep that
kept us company.
The evening was just as perfect, sitting up on deck with a
few drinks the only interruption was a few Solings drifting past in their
attempts to race in the last gasps of the on shore breeze. Even this soon died
leaving them to return on the tide. It was just as well it was a spring tide with a
five-meter range. The antidote to marina life, peaceful and self-sufficient for a change.
Friday
We decided to go to
South Sands for a walk along memory lane as the weather had become somewhat
variable. We went by ferry after some rather heavy showers, which would have
been a problem in the inflatable. It was appropriate to approach the familiar bays
of North and South Sands as we had in the past - by sea. Nothing had changed; the ferry
docked alongside an amphibious vehicle that drove down to meet us on the sands
and then dropped us off by the lifeboat house at the top of the beach. South Sands
hotel hadn't changed a bit as we passed it on the way up the road towards the headland.
We took the walk I used to run every morning when staying at the hotel – the
lower Courtney walk to Stairhole bay then up the valley and back along the top
returning via the woods. Magic moments abound there, wonderful views of the estuary
and the sea mixed with equally wonderful memories of sun, sand and sailing
holidays when the boys were small. This must be the best walk in England.
We returned by ferry but as soon as we got to the town the
rain started again. Only one thing to do – go to a pub until the rain stops! We
had a few very agreeable pints in the pub overlooking the quay after which we
were able to return with no sign of rain.
Before we had dinner a quite large yacht (36 ft) moored on
the outside of the raft, now four boats wide.
We asked them to put on shore lines but regrettably didn’t insist; they argued that it wasn’t necessary. The start of the evening was very
peaceful so we didn’t worry about the mooring and had a nice dinner with plenty
of wine. Just as we were feeling rather mellow we were abruptly interrupted by
a lot of bumping and people from a yacht further out returning to find out that
the raft was swinging all over the place due to the tide, which was now really
ripping past the pontoon. The inevitable outcome was that we had to spend an
hour sorting things out, moral of the story; insist on proper mooring every
time!
Saturday
The plan was to meet Chris and Viv (long standing friends) in the afternoon so went
into the town that morning to get some provisions. We thought it strange when they didn’t
answer our telephone call so it was no surprise to see them wandering around the
creek area. Consequently we had a pleasant lunch in a pub then went back to the boat for the
afternoon.
It was great to see them again and hear that they were
getting on really well after some difficult times. We eventually had dinner in
the Spinnaker, which was indifferent but still a wonderful evening due to the
company.
Sunday
Three nights in one place was enough and had given us the
itch so it was time to move on so we set out in the morning for Newton Ferris.
This proved to be an uneventful motor sail, there was not really enough wind to
get moving, the only other sails up were yachts motor sailing.
The entry is always
“interesting” – wonderful views but a need to take care. One yacht following us
took a short cut and seemed to go right over the rocks, local knowledge or
foolhardiness? We were not going to take chances. There were no moorings free
but plenty of room on the pontoon where we tied up in time for lunch. This was
an idyllic setting, surrounded by the gently sloping woodlands running down to
the water; lots of boats but little noise, most being unoccupied.
After lunch we went ashore using the small pier in front of
what was the Yealm Hotel but now, sadly anonymous holiday flats. We walked into
Newton Ferris and as the tide was out could cross over the causeway to Noss
Mayo. It was a perfect afternoon so we set out south across the farms to the
coast and return along the path around the headlands – wonderful!
Unfortunately arriving back at 5pm we found the tide in and
the ferry had closed at 4pm but it wasn’t that far around the estuary and back.
We ate at the Yacht Club; the upstairs flat had been converted into an
excellent bistro run by a French couple that produced an absolutely first class
Mediterranean fish stew.
Monday
Although tempted to stay longer we decided to push on to
Falmouth. We set off in good time as the weather was not that favourable – 4/5
increasing 6 on the nose with showers.
We had to alter course off Plymouth to avoid a submarine, HMS
Trenchant, who steamed straight out of the harbour. It had been reported in the Navy News so we could identify it by an
unusual blue coloured conning tower.
Plodding on into increasingly difficult conditions the sail
became less and less enjoyable. After lunch we became concerned about progress
and decided to cut our losses and head for Fowey. It was then a brisk beat
across the bay and into the river entrance. This proved to be an inspired move
as it was the start of regatta week but despite this there was not problem
finding a berth at Pont Pill.
We stayed on board for the first night, as there were
fireworks – wonderful! This was a great display, lots of blue starbursts, all
going of close by on the quay at the end of Polruan.
Tuesday
The day started out rather wet so we stayed on board for
some time before venturing out into the town in the afternoon to arrange a place
to eat, after much thought chose Food for Thought right on the quay where a
band was to play later that evening.
At about six we returned ashore to go to the Yacht Club for
drinks and a shower. Being regatta week this was a jolly place full of competitors
exchanging stories and competitive banter. This was to become a regular
backdrop to the stay!
The meal turned out to be superb, very friendly, good
ambiance and excellent food. After many evenings on board and in the inflatable
it was a treat to take the water taxi for a smart night out. Towards the end of
the meal the band started up outside and was first class, a local folk group
playing a cross between folk and pop.
Wednesday
It rained again on and off delaying plans for a walk but did
eventually clear to leave a fine day. We set off through the town then around
the coast to the Gribbin and on to Pokerris. The headlands were marvellous,
brilliant views, rolling hills with bright colours in the sunshine overlooked
by the landmark. It was flatter along to St Austell Bay and its small village
where we arrived just in time to have lunch at the only pub, which looks out
over the beach and the ageless scene of holidaymakers enjoying sea and sand.
The return across the fields was a contrast, no sea views,
all very rural and peaceful a different aspect leading back to Fowey. There were lots of well-appointed bungalows, not the stuff of postcards, we could have
been anywhere.
Returning to the boat we ate on board which was most
enjoyable; we then had a short walk around the town to see the festivities which
included being able to sit out on the lawn at “The Place” where we were able to
listen to the British Airways Brass Band. They were excellent, a varied
repertoire of Strauss, Big Band, Sea Shanties and ending with some Proms
favourites.
Thursday
The first clear morning for over a week – we made the most
of it by going over to Polruan in the tender complete with walking gear. The
village is a delight so we lingered over a coffee before setting off along Pont Pill
to the Mill at the end, then uphill to the church, across the fields to the
coast and back to Polruan round the headlands and the river. This time we get
it right and are in the pub by the quay comfortably for lunch.
The afternoon across the
town is dominated by eager anticipation of the big evening – the visit of the
Red Arrows. After returning on board we watched the working boats race during
the afternoon, not much wind but it was great to see so many out trying to race
for our benefit. They came close, right up the estuary, where the wind was very
fluky even though they would be much better off out to sea.
Right on time the Red Arrows screamed through the estuary
right over our mast and up Pont Pill. It was a brilliant display of real
precision flying – who could not be impressed? At first it seemed to be a
small-scale intimate affaire for the town and those of us with ringside seats
afloat. We then noticed that the hills looked a bit different – they were
covered in people! It was a totally different experience seeing the display in
a small estuary surrounded by hills.
Inevitably the display had to finish and we thought that was
the end so we took the water taxi to the town and had a very enjoyable meal in
a Chinese restaurant. However half way though our meal the Town Band, all
dressed up as Chinese bashed and banged their way past, very colourful! On
looking more closely some of them were wearing flying outfits and were the Red
Arrows pilots who had flown in by helicopter to join in still wearing their
red overalls. Even better they mixed with the revellers and had a tour round
the pubs – it brought a really personal touch to something usually rather
remote. They clearly enjoyed being in the town; apparently it was one of their
favourite venues.
Friday
Regrettably the last day and we needed to make our way back
to Plymouth. First we returned to Fowey under the pretext of some shopping but
in reality to delay the inevitable. The tide allowed for a leisurely return so
we motored out past the working boats having a real rather than pretend race
for the spectators in town. Soon the sails are up and we tried to sail our way
back but the wind was fickle and we had to resort, yet again, to the iron sail
for much of the time. Off Rame Head we encountered a confusing set of tugs with a
cable laying barge in a very long tow – definitely to be avoided!
We entered Plymouth Sound in bright sunshine – a wonderful
sight and fitting climax to a whole series of stunning views all along the
coast. This competes well with the Dorset coast for the best sail in England. We
had a good look at Polperro – there are moorings for a few yachts in the
deepish water off the pierhead, which apparently is very good. Unfortunately
the crew wants to get to Plymouth so we save it for another day. It didn’t
take long before we were moored on the visitor’s pontoon at Queen Anne’s Battery
– still quite busy after the Fastnet with a few competitors remaining moored up their.
With just a few hours to spare we went into the town to check
out the Yacht Clubs for dinner. Passing through the Barbican we couldn’t resist
going round the Plymouth Gin Distillery – this has just been bought by new
management and was experiencing quite a revival. All very interesting, lots of
copper and old buildings, the tasting of neat gin makes such an impression we
buy a couple of bottles of Navy Strength (extra strong) Gin.
As far as dinner is concerned the Royal Plymouth Corinthian
is a real disappointment, despite brilliant views. It’s rather stuffy,
unwelcoming and seems well past its best. The Royal Western by contrast was
friendly, active and very smart being quite new and part of the marina complex.
We have a superb meal in company of many other Yachties after which we read
some of the fascinating logbooks over coffee.
Saturday
It may be the last day but we want to make the most of it
and have the train ride to look forward to. We visit the National Marine
Institute – a fantastic new building with huge tanks showing mountain life at
the top of the building, descending to the murky depths with sharks in the
basement. We top it off by exploring the Barbican with its many antique shops – an attractive place to wander.
We ate up most of the food left over for lunch, dump the rest and caught a taxi to the station. Taking the
train is a real pleasure, it's a wonderful line, first the countryside then the wonderful seaside
views. The line then winds along the coast from Teignmouth through Dawlish and then
up the estuary to Exmouth. There's lots of little boats in the estuary to see, lots of
waving children with buckets and spades on the beaches as the track passes beaches and under cliffs through tunnels – a fitting and enjoyable
way to return!
In summary the holiday was a great success, Libeccio proved
to be fine in good weather and can be sailed easily single-handed. It’s a shame
there was not more sailing but at least we were not storm bound anywhere. The
big lesson – for relaxing holiday don’t try to fit in too many destinations!
The Return Trip – Saturday 28th August.
The plan was to return by train to Plymouth, meet Kieth Seston
there and sail back during the night with Monday, a bank holiday as
contingency. Amazingly it all worked like
clockwork, mainly due to clement weather – a bright sunny day with little wind.
We got to Plymouth on a rather crowded train, arriving in
time for lunch at the Royal Western where we couldn’t resist sitting outside
reading some more logbooks – Inspirational! In the afternoon I stocked up the
boat whilst Julian visited the Marine Institute until Keith joined us at about 4pm
after a rather challenging train journey.
We decided to leave without delay, it was calm so we motored out,
got organised and had dinner whilst underway. It was a perfect evening for
dinner, but a bit disappointing for sailing, yet again. We cleared the South Hams before
it got really dark and watched the stars come out whilst shaping a course for
the Bill. Soon we got into the routine of watches and had a pleasant motor
across Lyme Bay with only a few trawlers for company. These kept us alert by
going backwards and forwards in some alarming directions. We made great
progress with the tide being favourable in the early part of the night but payed for it in the early morning as progress around the Bill was slow plugging the tide so it stayed in sight for hours!
After breakfast it started to become favourable again so we
ripped past the Dorset coast well off shore, around Anvil Point and into Poole
Bay. By Midday we were up to Hurst where we stopped off at Keyhaven for lunch. We
tried the river but there was not much water there and all the moorings were taken. We
concluded that the outside would be safer which proved to be the case when the wind at last picks up –
typical! We put the kite up for practise, hoisting it using the sock which
works well and builds confidence in our ability to manage it short handed. The
evening is spent in Lymington before a leisurely sail, (yes a sail!) back to
Hamble the next day.
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