Random Ports Cruise With A Hair Raising Return Trip

                Crew:  Tony, Paul & Julian

 

Saturday

Everyone got down to Gins in good time but a few essentials were forgotten on the way such as a passport and all the vegetarian food. As a result two of our number gained Malcolm points before even setting foot on board. Roy, the boatman suddenly went quiet when he saw the mountain of gear but persevered and we all got on board.

Although it was a bright sunny day it wasn’t to last with an occluded front approaching fast. We made what we could of it by following the plan with a sail to Yarmouth; we had a passage to Morlaix planned but the strong south westerlies forecast made it unlikely to be achieved. Motoring up to Buckers Hard and back to fill all tanks gave us time to get everything sorted, then it was out to the Solent where we hoisted sail and shook out the reefs from the last trip. With about 10kn of wind from the southwest and a favourable tide we were able to make good progress over the ground even though it was a beat.

The first indication of trouble was when we saw fog tumbling over the coast between Yarmouth and Newtown in to the Solent; fortunately it didn’t last and soon cleared. The next cause for concern was when we saw then heard maroons going off at the Harbour in Yarmouth – closely followed by the lifeboat leaving. Fortunately it was only an exercise, part of the Old Gaffers festival that was going on which immediately ended any thought of getting in for the night. Off we went innocently to Lymington but a few quick calls once we were in the river established that this was completely full too! After trying to moor in the fairway without much success, there were only small buoys left, we headed off for Keyhaven as a better alternative to Cowes. On the way we realised that this really didn’t made any sense as we would have to stay on board for the night; we might as well get on and head out of the Needles Channel and see where the wind and tide would take us.

As luck would have it the brisk southwesterly dropped markedly once we cleared the Bridge consequently we didn’t have much power to overcome the lumpiness that is so often there. With a light southwesterly, the only course we could make was due south so it was to be Cherbourg, as everyone wanted to avoid motoring. With the cool of the evening the wind died so we had to motor after about 7pm anyway.

After preparing and enjoying the traditional sailing supper of Ocean pie we assumed two and a half hour watches starting at 9pm on the grounds that this would be fairest all round. Crossing the shipping lanes was busy but without significant course changes or incidents meaning a good nights sleep for everyone. Although it appeared suspect at times the visibility held, contributing to a stress free passage. After an uneventful night and a breakfast of bacon butties we headed into the port to tie up by 9am ready for a day in France; better than Keyhaven!

The vote was to do things the French way so after a few beers we installed ourselves in a brasserie overlooking the port and had a leisurely and rather alcoholic lunch. After this half the crew went to sleep it all off, whilst the other half walked it off by going round the Citi de Mer where we saw La Redoutable. This was the French nuclear deterrent of the 70’s and 80’s; quite amazing to be able to go all over a nuclear submarine. Most memorable was the officer’s mess complete with James Bond style white armchairs and a fish tank set into the wooden panelling.

The very leisurely evening was spent visiting an unusual Karaoke bar which was very French, having a mediocre pizza and consuming a good proportion of the ships stores on deck in the warm weather.

Monday

After one failed attempt we finally obtained croissants for breakfast which soon disappeared with lots of coffee whist reading the (French) papers. The random port generator by this time had been particularly productive and after countless possibilities that were discounted the decision was taken to head down the French coast and visit all the places we had not been to, starting with Carteret.

By leaving at 11am we would plug the tide to Cap de la Hague allowing us to enter the Alderney race at slack water with a full tide to take south to Carteret in record time – perfect! This plan actually worked well, we found the counter current and arrived at the Cap on time and after a brief bit of bounciness we were close hauled and heading for Dielette.

The clouds cleared and in bright sunshine we gently drifted on the light breeze but made excellent speed over the ground due to the powerful tide that could take us there on its own. Dielette is easy to see as it is uncomfortably close to a huge nuclear power station; we approached the entrance in case we needed it on our return, but soon headed on pleased to be going somewhere more attractive than an industrial complex.

Regrettably the light wind died away as we attempted to reach offshore and round Cap Flamanville so it was back to motoring. The good news was that with a mirror smooth sea and the tide under us the engine only had to be at tick over to propel us at 5kn.

Arriving off Cap de Carteret we had no doubt about our position – there is a huge lighthouse on the headland. It being HW –3hrs there was quite a party of fishing boats and a couple of yachts waiting to get in. We tried to anchor but soon realised that there was nothing but rocks and didn’t try that again. We just gilled around having a very pleasant bottle of wine in the sunshine until we felt it was reasonably safe to enter at HW-2 hrs. This was still touch and go with the depth alarm sounding nearly all the way up the river, not good for the skipper’s state of mind which resulted in a few colourful words. After following the river and the channel as best we could close to the bank where the fishing boats dried out we eventually reached the marina, negotiated the sill and moored up.

It was a beautiful evening so after an afternoon spent reading on deck as we drifted along, we were pleased to explore the small restaurants overlooking the sea and the fishing fleet. All very good value too but not a lot of fish on the menu; must try L’Hermitage next time which was full. After a final few beers over a quick game of pool at the bar du port and we called it a day.

Tuesday

The forecast was not great, rain with wind 3-4 occasionally 5 from the south, perhaps south east; the plan was to go to the Iles Chausey which should be a reasonable sail. In the event when we got up there was no wind at all so after breakfast we tried to get some more gas by walking into Barnville without success and left at 11:30 which was a bit late but in the pouring rain there had been little enthusiasm to leave earlier. This had been estimated to be the latest time to risk leaving the river on a falling tide; in practise we had almost a metre more than when we came in so no alarms, and a stress free departure.

We tried to sail a couple of times but just had to accept that the maximum we could make under sail was 2.5kn; not enough for the next port. Initially the tide was against us so it took an age for Cap de Carteret to disappear. We motored ahead in the odd shower that broke out until it brightened and with tide making light work again for the engine, almost pleasant. Sitting on deck once more with a book in the sunshine was a pleasant experience and preferable to many other trips even if we weren’t sailing.

By 6:30 the Iles Chausey were abeam but we had decided on Granville as it was closer. We went straight inshore to Point du Roc arriving off Granville a bit early so were forced to fill in the time sampling a particularly nice Australian Riesling. Initially we were a bit nervous entered the harbour but after rounding the huge breakwaters we saw a helpful electric sign that indicated 2m over the sill. In we went without delay or hesitation, keen to get into town.

It’s a grand place with the Haute Ville overlooking the harbour and the centre leading away inland. Quite big with lots of shops and facilities but a dearth of restaurants. Eventually we found a couple of restaurants overlooking the fishing port and a long awaited seafood dinner.

The marina is huge with excellent facilities including a rather pleasant bar,  we felt we just had to visit it, it looked just too inviting.

Wednesday

After much thought and debate we had decided on St Quay as the next destination if there was reasonable weather. As it happened there was no long-term forecast as the French Meto was on strike but the short term one was for a Force 2-3 Southerly. Heading off at 9:30 we found no wind so after half an hour of motoring we decided that a 50 mile slog with the engine full on was not what we came here for so the secondary port of Jersey was taken as the destination.

Fortunately conditions were ideal to go through the Sound of Chausey; it was just approaching high water, slack tide and a light wind. Anxiously we entered the channel from the south past Grand Isle with its sprinkling of houses and rather grand light house. We followed the channel, which was well marked past the many moorings and out to sea again, all very pleasant and much easier than expected. Even the entrance from the North would not pose many difficulties in good visibility, as there is a clearly identified transit between a beacon and the light.

We tried to sail but 2.5 miles an hour is not fun so it was a case for the iron sail once more to take us north past the NW Minquiers cardinal  then north west to St Helier. Entering the harbour was incident free this time   - no high-speed Condor ferries lurking around the corner! Unfortunately La Collette marina was rather full but after executing a U-turn between the pontoons we were able to moor in the most remote part – great teamwork and no panic at all thanks to the bow thruster.

The afternoon was spent sorting out a number of minor tasks that are never ending on a boat such as checking the lubricants and plenty of polishing. The chandlery close by  is excellent, we were even able to refill the gaz bottle that had proved impossible in France.

In order to recuperate after our exertions we went to the Yacht Club, after a quick shower, for a couple of pints. Amazingly we then went straight to the Indian restaurant we visited the previous year, much to the surprise of some members of the crew, the curry was excellent and well worth returning for.

Thursday

The tidal window seemed really short to get to Alderney so we left at 6am on the dot with a plan to bash into the adverse tide for two hours then have 6 hours of better tide in order to arrive in the Swinge by 2pm before it turned once more and stopped us in our tracks. The first two hours were not particularly comfortable but the 3 knots of tide off St Breade Bay reduced our speed to 2kn over the ground however by 8am we were off La Corbiere. The swell then picked up and in the light south westerlies and we still had to motor northwards past Grosnez Point were we ended up enduring a rather nasty corkscrew motion that destroyed everyone’s appetite.

Once up to Sark conditions improved, soon we were making a good 7kn over the ground sailing downwind; it became bright and sunny just for good measure. Approaching Alderney we were forced to motor again approaching the Swinge from the south keeping Ortac  west of north to avoid the dreaded Pierre Virac rock right on the rumb line between Gurnsey and Aldney. We went straight up the Swinge almost to Burhou until we reached the entry transit between the end of the breakwater and the fort where we were clear to enter the harbour avoiding the sunken part of the breakwater.

An early start had benefits – we were in time for a round of golf and after a couple of quick phone calls we were off on the water taxi and walking along the little railway and up the hill to the golf club. There we were made really welcome especially by the captain who had played at Castle Royle only two weeks before as a guest of Nick Robinson. The course has 9 holes with two tees on each one, not particularly long but requiring a high degree of accuracy at times to stay out of trouble. The rough was penal and not at all tolerant of a miss hit ball. We'd cleaned the club out of second hand balls but still ended up with a few left which was a result; we enjoyed it immensely. The views from the tees and greens are magnificent – the ideal combination of sailing and golf.

That evening we dined in Bumps Eating house, excellent food and particularly attractive waitresses the turbot was first class as was the Alderney crab starter.

Friday

Having declared Friday a lay day on Thursday and made the most of the evening the first few hours were a bit subdued as much wine had been drunk the night before. Eventually we set off for St Annes where two of us hired bikes to go around the Island whilst the budding pilots explored the airport on foot. Cycling around the Western end of the Island was spectacular with amazing views of rocks and the overfalls. Climbing up the zig zag was a bit strenuous but the views were ample reward. The Northern end was equally attractive, just a shame that the path between them is not good for cycling forcing us to take to the road.

In the afternoon we had another nine holes at the golf club where it was getting quite busy. That weekend was the Alderney Open and several groups of people had come over from Guernsey for a weekend out. We did the course justice this time, everyone played well with much reduced losses of balls even though we managed to get plentiful supplies beforehand from one the houses nearby.

After finding that the Marais, which had been recommended by the members at the club, was a bit too full of locals for dinner we ended up at the Thai restaurant, which was really good. All the Guernsey guys were there as were some locals who voted it the best place to eat on the island. They liked it so much they got a bit carried away with the booze so it ended up being a rather noisy and lively evening.

Saturday

To get through the tidal gate at Hurst and have an evening in Lymington we had to leave at 4am. A bit raw but just after daybreak, in winds that were not going to help us much we set off. Amazingly as we slipped our mooring another yacht did the same thing and got in the way!

The first few hours were uneventful motoring with only two needed on watch. At 8am we had breakfast just as the mist started to turn into fog in patches and the visibility dropped; unfortunately we were approaching the shipping lanes.

Concerned about collision risks after reading about the Moody that had been sunk by a P&O vessel in seconds we got the lifejackets on deck and grab bags at the ready. Unfortunately our radar was inoperable due to the cable fault but this was relatively new and we had crossed many times in fog without a radar before so carried on.  The east going lane was uneventful without any sign of shipping buy it was difficult to be sure how much visibility there really was. For most of the west going lane it was the same until, at 11am , just when we thought we may be getting clear we heard a loud blast on a foghorn nearby.

For a few moments we could do nothing but stare at the fog, the blast had come from the wrong place – to starboard and ahead. Suddenly the bow of a huge container ship appeared right on top of us; there was a split second to make a u-turn in order to avoid being t-boned. Just after turning through 90 degrees we were knocked clear by the bow wave and watched the wall of steel slide past going really fast. In a couple of seconds the ship disappeared into the fog and we were alone once more left stunned, collecting our wits and thankful to be still on board and unharmed.

Moving on, in about 5 minutes we came across another yacht that seemed to be behaving strangely until we realized that it was escorting a rowing boat; if they had been in the way of the container ship we had encountered they would have stood no chance. In another 10 minutes when we thought it was all over and had settled down again we had a repeat, amazingly another loud blast from the same direction. In seconds another bow was towering above us but fortunately this ship was going significantly slower and we had time to take avoiding action.

After half an hour we considered we were finally clear and over a cup of coffee reflected on the risks of crossing the shipping lanes in fog without radar. There was nothing we could have done differently, perhaps the risks are just to great nowadays to be out in poor visibility without radar; this experience was one we didn’t want to repeat.

The rest of the trip was uneventful in increasingly less patch fog that cleared as we approached the coast having taken the North head route as a safer option than the Needles channel. After a short sail past Hurst in bright sunshine we rounded up to Lymington mooring in the Yacht Haven at 7pm. There was plenty of time to have a shower and get into town where we had a rather subdued meal at the Tandoori; everyone was rather tired.

Sunday

Unfortunately Tony had to leave early due to domestic difficulties but we soon managed to get re-fuelled without him and the boat cleaned up. It hadn’t seemed to be that windy in the marina and the forecast was not dire however, the first inkling of trouble was seeing the lifeboat bringing a cruiser up the river. Outside we registered 32 knots but as were going downwind we thought we'd be ok; we just opened the genoa a bit and shot off at 7 knots.

Entering the Beaulieu River was a cause for concern as there was, in theory, water over the bar but not if the waves were really high. There was no room to screw up into the wind but we kept our course and maintained the transit even though the dreaded depth alarm kept sounding. Mooring was a bit tricky but once tied up we could relax, have lunch and tidy up the boat before calling Roy for a lift back to Ginns, which we made in the mid afternoon by which time the wind was dropping fast.

In summary 290 miles and 105 litres of diesel reflecting a lot of motoring but still a thoroughly enjoyable week.

Postscript

Feeling rather concerned about our near collision in mid channel, I wanted to share this incident and our views on the risks of crossing in poor visibility without radar with other yachtsmen. I wrote a letter to the Editor of Yachting Monthly, to my surprise it was given pride of place and generated a lot of comment. It is now clear that container ships are travelling down the channel at speeds of 25 knots; whether this is in accordance with the collision regulations or not is debatable. These ships present a very different threat to a yacht than a ship travelling at 12 knots as we found out so clearly. The consensus is that radar is now essential in the conditions we experienced which have serious implications for the many yachts especially racing ones not equipped with radar.