Crew: Gerry Keegal (Getting there), Lynda (Whilst there)
Part One – Getting There
Friday 19th July
After much forethought and planning the day for our big trip arrived. The autohelm was fixed, we'd made the passage plan and got organised to
allow an early start to the weekend. Arriving at Ginns by 5:30 in a minicab was
an outright luxury enabling us to put Alize on the pier, get everything stored and make
final preparations in time to have an excellent meal courtesy of Robert and his
colleagues.
Saturday
Although we got boxed in
by a stinkboat the owner turned out to be charming and was up ready to go at
6:30 in the morning and let us out – what an example! We were able to leave on
time at 07:00
The sail down the Solent was as good as it gets, moderately
windy, bright sunshine and few people about at that time. We soon past the
busy river at Newtown then past the crowded harbour at Yarmouth all on a fast, close
reach. Hard on the wind we cleared Hurst where we were able to ease off on a
broader reach up the Needles Channel passing Alum and the other bays in
glorious early morning sunshine. Unfortunately at Bridge it all came to an end,
as we had to go WSW, straight into the wind to make a course to clear Portland
Bill.
This next leg was a slog on the wind all the way, enduring
less than ideal conditions over St Albans Ledge and the approaches to the Bill
where it got quite rough. Our strategy, as usual, had been to fight the last two
hours of foul tide to Hurst giving us six hours to get past the Bill. We should
then have a spell of foul tide followed by fair going across Lyme Bay where it
didn’t matter too much and, with luck, this would get past Start Point before
the tide went against us again.
Things, as often do in sailing, did not go quite according
to plan. The strong westerlies delayed progress even though we were motor
sailing for much of the time so we arrived off the Bill in some bumpy
conditions just as the tide turned against us. It seemed like an eternity with
the Bill abeam but we eventually saw it recede, this took most of the late
afternoon and early evening. The good news was that the wind then freed just
enough for us to maintain our course across the Bay on one tack. This turned
out to be a glorious sail once the tide had turned and the worst of the seas
settled down. It was a good force 5 which powered us through the seas making
great progress when the tide turned. Day turned into night and initially we had
excellent visibility with brilliant moonshine. This was a real advantage as
there was a great deal of coastal traffic to contend with although not many
yachts. Later the moon set allowing us to see a myriad of small stars that were
not visible earlier amongst the usual constellations.
Sunday
Torbay became clear after a brief period with no land in
sight, fleetingly we could see the loom of Start Point as well as Portland, but
only briefly. The good times again had to come to an end as we neared Start
Point. Passing took an age whilst the dawn broke and the daylight gradually got
stronger, eventually we could see Salcombe to the north of us and we could tack
towards the great mass of Bolt Head. There was then no option but to motor sail on to Plymouth, as we had to make the harbour before it closed for the Power
Boat Championships. Fortunately the seas flattened out as we got up to Bigbury Bay, making
it as pleasant as it could be with the engine on, whilst passing Burgh Island,
brilliantly lit by the sun. On past the familiar headlands above Newtown Ferris where we've had fine walks, past the entrance to the river and ultimately past the Mewstone
rock.
From then it was only a short motor into the harbour where
we soon got the sails down, refuelled and moored at Queen Anne’s Battery where
we retired to the Royal Western for lunch to celebrate an excellent passage
after a welcome shower. In all we made 120 miles (approx) in 28 hours, only 2
hours over the plan of 26hrs which shows that a 5kn assumed speed is a good choice.
Part Two – Cornwall
Saturday 27th July
Sunday
The passage plan called for a relaxed start, which was very
civilised, the tide had got themselves well organised for the trip. There was a
west going tide from 11am onwards which meant that when we needed to return it
will be east going – perfect!
As forecast it was bright and sunny with a light westerly, right
on the nose as usual! Motoring out towards Rame Head was a joy. Seeing the
harbour disappearing behind is always satisfying, it gives a real sense of
leaving for a passage. Sails were soon up and the autohelm engaged, then there was
not much more to do than read the papers, just keep watch of
course! The wind tried to pick up but there was not enough to sail in, we tried but could only make 2kn. This would never get us the 40 miles to Helford River, so
it was on with the Iron sail once more. Lunch was a bright interlude, a proper salad and
mushroom tart washed down with a bottle of wine, suitable chilled, of course.
We headed offshore on the
rumb line to Helford with Dodman point in the distance. We passed south of Fowey
in the afternoon, the daymark clearly visible in the distance, then steered between the yellow buoys off Dodman Head. All easy passage making, it
couldn’t last. The wind freed a bit and strengthened which allowed us to sail for a
while; then it all changed, the distant coast started to disappear and the headlands
became covered in mist.
Surprisingly soon we were in really quite thick fog, a great contrast from the easy passage thus far. We quickly put on more clothes, oily
tops and life jackets as the temperature plummeted. Reducing speed we groped our
way forward, foghorn at the ready. The radar really came into it’s own, an invaluable aid. The waters were very crowded, especially as we neared Falmouth, the radar correctly identified lost yachts and a big fishing boat,
stationary, dead ahead.
Off St Anthony’s Head it was a bit eerie, even slightly
scary. We heard the mournful sound of the foghorn by the lighthouse to the north
and another great hoot dead ahead. It was a large ship leaving Falmouth, we were
very close, couldn't see it, but could track it on the radar going south. I decided that the best option was to remain on the same heading and maintain course for the Helford River, the wide estuary being easier to enter than a crowded harbour with it's turns and obstacles in thick fog. The downside was that we were constantly
crossing yachts looking lost, heading north, lookouts straining for something
to see. Fortunately off the estuary with a few cables to go the fog cleared which was just as well as a ferry departed behind us causing chaos. We were able
to see the funnel top above the fog whilst the hull remained hidden, quite
surreal.
It didn't take long to
find a vacant berth even though most were occupied; the mooring officer suggested a suitable one. With the huge chain tied securely to the bow we felt much safer and retired below for an excellent three-course meal. We enjoyed lobster
terrine, shanks of lamb and a cheese board accompanied by some equally
excellent white and red wine.
A highlight of the evening was the silence broken only by the
sound of hymns being sung at Port Navas, we found out later that it was a
“Carolaire”, part of the regatta. There was also a brass band, the bass notes
carrying across the water clearly. We could even just make out the lines of seated participants on
Oyster quay. It was delightful being in such a wonderful spot and a real treat to
hear the singing across the water whilst we read in the cockpit.
Monday
The night was stunningly quiet but by eight o’clock the
moorings were disturbed by what seemed to be an endless succession of outboard
motors buzzing about to and fro. It was a wonderful morning without a cloud in
the sky; I tried to capture it in a sketch but am more successful with the coffee
and croissants for breakfast. Later we moved to a proper visitors buoy and
inflated the dingy.
We headed across the river to Port Navas to find out what was going on and
have lunch. This pretty hamlet is not far up the creek, looks very festive with flags and
bunting all along the quayside to celebrate the regatta. After a short walk we
had some really fresh crab sandwiches and some excellent Sharps bitter at the
little Yacht Club. There was a Moody 31 alongside; apparently they came in with
6 ft of water at high tide, we didn't consider joining them. Annoyingly as we
tried to return a great lump of seaweed wound itself around the propeller of the outboard which caused the shear pin to break; it was quite a row back to the
boat in order to fix it!
Not wanting to do
anything too active as the crew was a bit under the weather we set off for
Helford Passage by tender for a walk along the coast to Durgan – its really
beautiful with rolling hills interspersed with magic beaches. The sun was strong so really hot in its rays but deliciously cool in the glades. Having followed
the path just past Durgan we arrived at the entrance to Trebah Gardens, which
could not be missed, its a wonderful place. The combination of an estate full of so many exotic
ferns, tropical plants and a valley smothered in colourful Hydrangeas is
stunning.
Returning to the tender we stopped off for a quick drink and
watched the people on the beach enjoying themselves, perfect relaxation! After
picking up our clothes we carry on to the other side of the river to the Yacht Club. This is
a prominent Scandinavian style building near the village of Helford where we could have a shower. Just as the sun disappeared the mist
rolled in like the previous evening, we hurried back not wanting to make it difficult finding the boat.
Tuesday
Another quiet night, only disturbed by a short burst of
rain. After breakfast and a quick sketch we dropped the mooring and set off for
Falmouth. It was only 4 miles but our timing is such that we left in sunshine,
traveled in the rain and arrived when the sun had returned. There wasn't much wind so it was a short
motor up the coast past a fleet of International 14’s trying to start a race
and on through the entrance, past the rock and the port facilities.
Port Pendennis was our
choice, in order to be close to the town, with easy mooring and good facilities.
The Town pier was popular as usual so not our preference, they were already moored three deep; equally unattractive, Falmouth marina is well out of town. The new outer marina was fine but the waterside was a building site – they were still constructing the new Maritime Museum, which
would be great the following year but not now. We moored in good company, next to a super yacht
“Fidel”, 33 meters long from New Zealand but stuck with hydraulic problems
The first priority was lunch at the Royal Cornwall. Although not a
disappointment, with great food and good beer, the company was very geriatric. We felt very much
out of it in our sailing clothes.
In the afternoon we had an interesting visit to Pendennis Castle which we've seen so many times from the sea. A woman we approached for directions said it’s “a
long walk” but it wasn’t really and was well worth seeing. There is a whole
range of fortifications ranging from a Tudor castle with its gun deck to a
World War II observation post and gun battery. Lots of interesting bits of history, such
as in 1900 there was a network of mines across the entrance set off
automatically by sighting telescopes using electric wiring – hi tech stuff!
The evening was completed by a visit to the Chain Locker on
the Quay where we had some traditional ale amidst all the marine artefacts
that are reminiscent of the Classic boat festival to be held in three weeks
time.
Wednesday
The day started off well with a walk planned to go from
Penryn to Pandora’s Inn via Mylor. The taxi to Penryn works fine but we are
soon in pouring rain and only get as far as Flushing before we seek shelter.
What there was of the walk was really pretty, all creeks and old boats.
Flushing is nice enough but only really for pubs; after concluding that the rain was
set in for the day we caught the ferry back to Falmouth – a pragmatic decision!
The afternoon was spent pottering around in the many
bookshops and antique shops of Falmouth where the stock of maritime books is especially
good. The evening was a bit lively as the Royal Princess, who had been alongside
us on the pier opposite, left accompanied by an entourage of tugs and the
harbourmaster – quite an operation.
Dinner was at “Hunkey Dory” a new restaurant with a modern
feel and excellent food, especially it's fish; it made for a delightful evening compensating for a disappointing day.
Thursday
We set off for Fowey after breakfast at about 9:30, just
after another liner came in. We motored out as far as St Antony’s Head to regret not putting the sails up in the relative calm of the harbour. The wind
was about 20kn from the North East, right on the nose. Worse, the waves had
built up and it was really quite rough which was the biggest problem. We seemed to be fated – beating all the time! Unfortunately Alize doesn’t handle 15-20kn
winds close hauled very well. Below that the Yankee is fine, above that the
staysail and reefed main work well.
Cursing our misfortune we resigned ourselves to more motor sailing with the staysail and one reef in the
main. Fortunately the first hour was the worst, after that it got better with
the sea and wind easing. Finally after
Dodman Point we were rewarded with a fine sail as the wind dropped to 15kn and
backed just enough to be able to make Fowey just off the wind; even the sea had
moderated. After an hour of splendid sailing the rigours of the start were history, even for the crew as we entered the estuary passing the daymark
on the Gribbin to port. The approach to Fowey is magical; rolling hills covered
in little houses all different brilliant colours in the sunshine.
We were soon moored just
off the Royal Fowey Yacht Club, on the other side of the river, where we paused for lunch.
This was the best pastie we'd have ever had; bought in Plymouth from a woman who
made them in the shop and insisted that we re-heated them properly – 30 mins in
a cool oven.
It was really hot in the afternoon so we elected to have a read
before going into town. The bookshop there turned up a gem – The Glenans Manual
of Sailing. I had been searching for this out of print classic for some time;
it was a fine 1976 copy, in excellent condition.
Fowey is always a delightful place to be, there is little
need to do much to enjoy it when the weather is so good. Tea at the Fowey Hotel
provided the opportunity to enjoy outstanding views across the River. The
square was equally enjoyable before we went back to Alize as night fell; the floodlight church and
lights of the many houses over the hillside make us thankful we decided to come
again.
Friday
Although it was coming to the end of the
holiday, we felt relaxed. Lynda’s leg had become a bit painful which, unfortunately, put long walks off the agenda. We decide on an
easy day as it was so pleasant in Fowey. Following breakfast we sorted out a few things
such as a boarding ladder that would enable us to transfer to the dingy more easily. We
then set off for Polruan for a short walk through the village and around the
headlands. Views were stunning, the bright sun and cloudless sky make the all
the colours brilliant, such a change from grey days. The village still has a backwater, lost in time, feel which is particularly evident when we listened to
the local banter in the village shop. It was impossible to pass the Lugger without
going inside so had a couple of excellent pints of St Austell Brewery’s
Tinners; it's either that or Doom Bar there, no contest!.
Lunch back on the boat was leisurely but after a quick doze
we managed to get on with the never-ending list of jobs that always exists on a yacht.
At 5pm we downed tools and headed into town for a refreshment and a shower at the Yacht Club. Surprisingly it was quite busy, the food looked good
too. We resisted the temptation and ate back on board, a pleasant end to an unusually enjoyable and relaxing day.
Saturday
Dawn was outstanding, bright sun, clear skies, everything was crystal clear across the unruffled waters of the estuary in all directions. Unfortunately this could not change the fact that it was the last day, so after a quick trip into town and breakfast we are off.
After slipping the mooring we set off into a light North
Westerly. The forecast was cyclonic and that’s exactly what we get; the wind
steadily backed all the way round the clock to the North by the evening. This
meant that after a patch of motoring in light winds we could squeeze in a short but fine sail from
Looe Island East on a beam reach. There was just enough wind, 10kn, to keep us
going at 4-5kn, ideal sailing for the crew. We were absorbed by the changing
coastline as we got gently cooked – we wondered, suntan or sunburn? Lunch was
pasties but we made an exception once again by getting a few drinks out to
accompany them.
This idyllic situation
changed just after Rame Head, clouds appeared and the wind dropped but it was good
while it lasted. By the time we reached the harbour it was really menacing and at the
fuel berth the heavens opened up. After three attempts due to some poor
directions from the marina office we moored up in a quiet spot. It didn't take
long to tidy the boat up before we set off to have a farewell dinner at the bistro. A
bright interlude, we meet three jolly old types from the Royal Thames YC who
accompanied us from Fowey. They had sailed over from Kinsale and were quite
fun.
Sunday
Early to rise, breakfast and packed the bags. A quick clean
up checking everything is ok and we get the taxi to the station. The journey
back is a pleasure as usual event though the train is quite full. We are
thankful we brought sandwiches – they ran out!
Overall a great trip, not outstanding sailing, but we did do 200 miles in total. A very relaxing and enjoyable week.
